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Introductory Remarks.- To compose menus or "bills of fare" has come to be regarded as the highest attainment of culinary art. Cooking is comparatively easy, requiring only care and skill in carrying out the scheme that has beenpreviously elaborated for the guidance of the cook. The Menu is the architect's plan, the cook is the builder. Some cooks work fromplans which they have themselves designed, but, in private families, or public institutions, where the services of a master in cookery are not available, it would be unsatisfactory to leave the arrangement of the Menu in the hands of the cook. There are several reasons why a good plain cook should not be entrusted with organising a Menu. The temptation to make it an occasion for, on the one hand, showing off skill in particular dishes, and on the other, of shirking those dishes that give extra trouble in their preparation, militate seriously against the gastronomic qualities of the dinner, so that it is advisable in every case for the host or hostess to draw out the menu, with the cook's co-operation.

As to the language in which a Menu should be written, considerable argument has prevailed, many preferring to use the French language throughout. The observation of a famous gastronomist, that it is not necessary for one to be a French scholar to enjoy a good dinner, certainly scores in favour of English; but then, on the contrary, there are so many dishes in familiar use in this country that have no English equivalents, that it would be impossible to work out an artistic menu without introducing French terms here and there. A mixture of the two languages has led to much dissatisfaction, and some very amusing combinations have occasionally appeared on Menus through the presumption of ignorant cooks, such as a "jambon of ham," and others perhaps worse. The inclination, therefore, is in favour of adopting French terminology throughout. But this, again, would be deceptive to the diner, for in many - far too many-- instances the modes of preparing certain dishes with even standard names differ. Of pronunciation and spelling, little need be said, mistakes occurring on all sides, from the French cook's "biftek de mouton" to the British cook's "savvy cake" for savoy. Innumerable instances of these errors might be given if any good purpose would be served by doing so. Throughout this Encyclopaedia the great difficulty of nomenclature has been got over by adopting those which appeared to be the more plausible, whilst those of a doubtful meaning have been carefully ignored. Hence it will be found in some few instances that terms used in the following Menus, even though prescribed by chefs of the highest standing, may not appear amongst our receipts under the heading, the apparen t omission being in reality due to the practice of the individual. The popular absurdity of serving an old dish under the name of some personage, such as "Consomme a la Duchesse de Montgomery" has only been countenanced when the receipt for its preparation, diffeering from others, has no other title to suit it.

Care has been taken in selecting these Menus to insert those which are capable of suggesting others. Variations may be found desirable in many instances, and these can be readily supplied by reference to the list given in the index.

The art of designing a menu requires a knowledge of foods in season, or attainable. The capabilities of the cook should be studied, as well as the tastes of the guests. It would be absurd to put delicate entrees before a person unaccustomed to a high-school of cookery, and it would be outrageous to serve a gourmet with boiled beef and vegetables, or roast leg of mutton and turnips. According to the English custom the first service should be of a preliminary character, such as soup or fish, or both. This should be followed by a ,i>substantial dish of meat, a piece de resistance to satisfy appetite. Then the cook may venture to serve up any delicate viands, such as entrees. Following this comes in correct order a roast bird of some sort, attended or followed by a salad. Entremets, such as delicate vegetables, follow the roast, and dishes of highest flavour, such as cured hams, smoked tongues, and any other of that kind. Sweets come on the table at this point. The repast concludes with sqavour tit-bits, such as cheese and its preparaqtions, caviare, dried fish, devilled biscuits, mushrooms, and other similar foods.

Updated: Sunday, March 30, 2008.