
TACOS, ENCHILADAS AND REFRIED BEANS: THE INVENTION OF MEXICAN-AMERICAN COOKERY
Andrew F. Smith
135 Eastern Parkway #11A
Brooklyn, NY 11238
1. Bertha Haffner-Ginger, California Mexican-Spanish Cook Book; Selected Mexican and Spanish Recipes (Los Angeles: Citizen Print Shop, c1914), np. Many other reasons were offered for this misusage. For instance, one source reports "there are Mexicans in the Southwest who have suffered under a cruel form of racial prejudice which, in some cases, has subjected them to indignities similar to those suffered by racial minorities in other parts of the country. In a pathetic attempt to escape such persecution, some Mexicans have been reluctant to admit their heritage and have called themselves, their customs, their background Spanish." See Bonnie Peplow and Ed Peplow, Roundup Recipes: A Sampling of Modern Western Cooking from Shovel Flapjacks to Son-of-a-Gun Stew (Cleveland and New York: The World Publishing Company, 1951), 132.
2. Baltasar Dorantes de Carranza, Sumaria relacion de las cosas de la Nueva Espana (Mexico City: Museo Nacional, 1902), 6, as quoted in Sophie D. Coe, America's First Cuisines (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1994), 68, 99-100.
3. Margaret R. Bunson and Stephen M. Bunson, Encyclopedia of Ancient Mesoamerica (New York: Facts on File, 1996), 11.
4. Murdo J. MacLeod, Spanish Central America: A Socioeconomic History 1520-1720 (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1973), 215; John C. Super, Food, Conquest, and Colonization in Sixteenth-Century Spanish America (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1988), 67.
5. Bernardino Sahagun [Arthur Anderson and Charles E. Dibble, trans.], Florentine Codex: Book 8-Kings and Lords Part IX, No. 14 (Santa Fe, New Mexico: The School for American Research and The University of Utah, 1954), 66-68.
6. Bernardino Sahagun [Arthur Anderson and Charles E. Dibble, trans.], Florentine Codex: Book 8-Kings and Lords Part IX, No. 14 (Santa Fe, New Mexico: The School for American Research and The University of Utah, 1954), 39.
7. The only plants known to have been domesticated in Eastern America were maygrass, little barley, knotweed, sumpweed, sunflower, goosefoot, Jerusalem artichokes, and possibly some squashes. Jared Diamond, Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies (New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1997), 126-27; 150-5 1.
8. Walton C. Galinat, "Domestication and Diffusion of Maize," in Richard 1. Ford, ed.,Prehistoric Food Production in North America (Ann Arbor, Michigan: Museum of Anthropology, University of Michigan #75, 1985), 276-77.
9. Jared Diamond, Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies (New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1997), 188, 367.
10. Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981; National & Regional Styles of Cookery; Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 264-66.
11. Letter of Coronado to Mendoza, from the city of Granada, province of Cibola, August 3, 1540, as in George P. Hammond and Agapito Rey, eds., Narratives of the Coronado Expedition, 1540-1542 (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1940), 172.
12. "Casteneda's History of the Expedition," as in George P. Hammond and Agapito Rey, eds., Narratives of the Coronado Expedition, 1540-1542 (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1940), 251, 255-256.
13. Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981; National & Regional Styles of Cookery; Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 67.
14. Helen Walker Linsenmeyer, From Fingers to Finger Bowls: A Sprightly History of California Cooking (San Diego: Union-Tribune Publishing Co., 1972), 4-5.
15. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 43.
16.Mariano Galvan Rivera, Diccionario de Cocina o el Nuevo Cocinero Mexicano en Forma Diccionario Second edition (Mexico: Imprenta de I Cuplido, 1845).
17. Jose Maria Sünchez [Carlos E. Castafieda, trans.], "A Trip to Texas, 1828," Southwestern Historical Quarterly 29 (April 1926): 251.
18. Juan N. Almonte [Carlos E. Castafieda, trans.], "Statistical Report on Texas," Southwestern Historical Review 28 (January 1925): 197.
19. Frederick Law Olmsted, A Journey Through Texas (New York: Dix, Edwards, & Co., 1860), 159.
20. Stephen Powers, Afoot and Alone: A Walk from Sea to Sea by the Southern Route (Hartford: Columbia Book Company, 1872), 164-65.
21. Reverend P. F. Parisot, The Reminiscences of a Texas Missionary (San Antonio: Johnson Bros. Printing Co., 1899), 38; John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8(January 1895): 62.
22. H. F. McDanield and N. A. Taylor, The Coming Empire, or, Two Thousand Miles in Texas on Horseback (New York: A.S. Barnes & Company, 1878), 125-26.
23. Stephen Gould, The Alamo City Guide (New York: Macgowan and Slipper, 1882), 138.
24. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico, " Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 60.
25. Centennial Buckeye Cook Book with Introduction and Appendix by Andrew F. Smith reprint (Columbus: Ohio State University Press, 1999), 311.
26. Ladies' Aid Society of the Fort St. M.E. Church, com., Los Angeles Cookery (Los Angeles: Mirror Printing and Binding, 1881) 27-28; 98, 126,127-130.
27. Ladies of the First Congregational Church, comp., Santa Barbara Recipes (Santa Barbara, Cal.: Morning Press Printing House, 1888), 71-74.
28. Manual for Army Cooks Prepared under the Direction of the Commissary General of Subsistence (Washington, DC: Govennnent Printing Office, 1896), 185-91. I am indebted to Joe Carlin, Food Heritage Press, for locating this source.
29. Sarah Tyson Rorer, Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book (Philadelphia: Arnold and Company, 1902), 680-84.
30. Edwin Bryant, What I Saw in California Second edition (New York: David Appleton & Co., 1848), 305- 306; John Russell Bartlett, Personal Narrative of Explorations & Incidents in Texas, New Mexico, California, Sonora, and Chihuahua, Connected with the United States and Mexican Boundary Commission During the 1850, '51, '52 and '53 two vols. (London, G. Routledge; New York, D. Appleton, 1854), vol 1, 408; W. W. H. Davis, El Gringo; or, New Mexico and Her People (New York, Harper & Brothers, 1857), 360; John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 42-43, 47-48, 62.
31. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 42-43, 47-48.
32. Louise Lloyd Lowber, "A New Mexico Supper at the Famous Enchilada House in Old Albuquerque," American Cookery 26 (October 1921): 206-207. Other enchilada recipes appear in Parco Woman's Club, Choice Recipes (Parco, Wyoming: np, 1930), np; Assistance League of Southern California, The Palatists Book of Cookery (Hollywood, California: Citizen-News Company, 1933), 82.
33. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 42-48.
34. Reverend P. F. Parisot, The Reminiscences of a Texas Missionary (San Antonio: Johnson Bros. Printing Co., 1899), 38; John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 62.
35.Warren L. Cook, Flood Tide of Empire: Spain and the Pacific Northwest, 1543-1819 (New Haven:Yale University Press, 1973), 337.
36. Early recipes for refried beans appear in: Ladies of St. Paul's Guild, Household Manual and Practical Cook Book, Embracing Many Hundreds of Valuable Recipes, Contributed and Endorsed by the Best Housekeepers of Texas (Waco, Texas: Brooks & Wallace Steam Print, 1888), 246; 453 Cooking and Other Recipes 1902 Series Prize (Los Angeles: Times-Mirror Co., [1902]), 36; Charles Lummis in the Landmark Club Cook Book (Los Angeles: The Out West Company, 1903),9-10.
37. Louise Lloyd Lowber, "A New Mexico Supper at the Famous Enchilada House in Old Albuquerque," American Cookery 26 (October 1921): 207.
38. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 42-48.
39. John Cowan, What to Eat and How to Cook It with Rules for Preserving, Canning and Drying Fruits and Vegetables (New York Cowan & Co., 1870), 75; Ladies of St. Paul's Guild, Household Manual and Practical Cook Book, Embracing Many Hundreds of Valuable Recipes, Contributed and Endorsed by the Best Housekeepers of Texas (Waco, Texas: Brooks & Wallace Steam Print, 1888), 246; Encarnacion Pinedo, The Spanish Cook, a Selection of Recipes from Encarnacion Pinedo's El Cocinero Espaûol, Edited and Translated by Dan Strehl (Pasadena: The Weather Bird Press, 1992), 26; Ladies of the First Congregational Church, comp., Santa Barbara Recipes (Santa Barbara, Cal.: Morning Press Printing House, 1888), 71; Sylvia Lovegren, Fashionable Food Seven Decades of Food Fads (New York: Macmillan, 1995), 32.
40. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 42-48; Harris Newmark, Sixty Years in Southern California (1853-1913) (New York: The Kickerbocker Press, 1926), 133-34; Kate Sanborn, A Truthful Woman in Southern California (New York: D. Appleton and Co., 1893), 29-3 1.
41. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 54.
42. Sylvia Lovegren, Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads (New York: Macmillan, 1995), 33.
43. Willow Borba, comp., Loyalty Cook Book Native Daughters of the Golden West Fourth edition (Sebastopol, California: Willow Borba, 1956), 313-318.
44. S. Compton Smith, Chile con Carne: or the Camp and the Field (New York: Miller & Curtis, 1857),99.
45. Landmark Club Cook Book (Los Angeles: The Out West Company, 1903), 14; Ana Begue de Packman, Early California Hospitality: The Cookery Customs of Spanish California, with Authentic Recipes and Menus of the Period (Fresno, California: Academy Library Guild, 1953), 114-15; Mario Montanio, "The History of Mexican Folk Foodways of South Texas: Street Vendors, Offal Foods, and Barbacoa de Cabeza," Ph. D. Dissertation (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 1992), 120-22, 175; Bill Bridges, The Great Chili Book.- 101 Variations on "The Perfect Bowl of Red" (New York: Lyons & Burford, 1994), 17.
46. John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 62.
47. Francisco J. Santamaria, Diccionario General de Americanismos 3 vols. (Mexico: Editorial Pedro Robredo, 1942), 1: 493.
48. Cora Brown, Rose Brown, and Bob Brown, The South American Cook Book (New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1939), 94.
49. Cora Brown, Rose Brown and Bob Brown, The South American Cook Book (New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1939), 94.
50. Ema Fergusson, Mexican Cookbook (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1934),
51. Fabiola Cabeza de Baca Gilbert, The Good Life: New Mexico Traditions and Food reprint (Santa Fe: Museum of New Mexico Press, 1949 [1982]), v.
52. Maria and Joe Gargiulo, "Mexican Cafe at Maria's Pueblo" [Menu] San Rafael, California, circa1940s].
53. Cora, Rose and Bob Brown, The South American Cook Book (New York: Doubleday &Company, Inc., 1939), 187.
54. Bertha Haffner-Ginger, California Mexican-Spanish Cook Book; Selected Mexican and Spanish Recipes (Los Angeles: Citizen Print Shop, c 1914), 45.
55. Pauline Wiley-Kleemann, ed., Ramona's Spanish-Mexican Cookery; The First Complete and Authentic Spanish-Mexican Cook Book in English (Los Angeles: West Coast Publishing Co., 1929), 84-86.
56. Mexican Cookery for American Homes (San Antonio: Gebhardt's, 1935), 10.
57. Blanche McNeill and Edna McNeill, First Foods of America (Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York: Suttonhouse Ltd., 1936), 39-40.
58. Ruth Watt Mulvey and Luisa Maria Alvarez, Good Food from Mexico (New York: M. Barrows and Company, Inc., 1950), 82-83.
59. James W. Peyton, La cocina de frontera; Mexican-American Cooking from the Southwest (Santa Fe: Red Crane Books, 1994), 15.
60. Early references to avocados appear in Bernardino Sahagian [Arthur Anderson and Charles E. Dibble, trans.], Florentine Codex: Book 8 -Kings and Lords Part IX, No. 14 (Santa Fe, New Mexico:The School for American Research and The University of Utah, 1954), 38, 68; Sophie D. Coe, America's First Cuisines (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1994, 44-45; Maximilian De Loup, The American Salad Book (New York: G. R. Knapp, 1899), 110; Janet M. Hill, Boston Cooking School Magazine 9 (October 1904): 153; P. H. Rolfs, "The Avocado in Florida; Its Propagation, Cultivation, and Marketing," Bulletin No. 61 (Washington, DC: Bureau of Plant Industry, U. S. D. A., 1904); G. N. Collins, "The Avocado, A Salad Fruit from the Tropics," Bulletin No. 77 (Washington, DC: Bureau of Plant Industry, U.S. D. A., Henry Theophilus Finck, Food and Flavor, a Gastronomic Guide to Health and Good Living (New York, The Century Co., 1913), 239-40.
61. [A. L. Wyman], Los Angeles Times Cook Book No. 2 (Los Angeles: The Times-Mirror Company, 1905), 3; Favorite Recipes of the Movie Stars (New York: Tower Books, 1931), 45; John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and Northern Mexico," Journal of American Folk-Lore 8 (January 1895): 43; Maximilian De Loup, The American Salad Book (New York: McClure, Phillips & Co., 1900), 110; Boston Cooking-School Magazine 9 (October 1904): 153; Assistance League of Southern California, The Palatists Book of Cookery (Hollywood, California: Citizen-News Company, 1933), 34; Doris Aller, comp., The Epicure in Mexico Number 3 (San Francisco: Colt Press, 1940), 34; Blanche McNeill and Edna McNeill, First Foods of America (Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York: Suttonhouse Ltd., 1936), 107; Genevieve A. Callahan, Sunset All- Western Cook Book (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1933), 45 -51; Katherine Kerry, Look What's Cooking in and Near San Francisco Revised edition (San Francisco: Filmer Brothers and Cooperative Bindery, 1951), 45.
62. Carlotta Flores, El Charro Caf˜: The Tastes and Traditions of Tucson (Tucson, Arizona: Fisher Books, 1998), 2-5.
63. Alfonso C. Pain, comp., El Charro: Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge; Western Mexican Cook Book (Mesa, Arizona: El Charro, 1959).
64. Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981: National & Regional Styles of Cookery; Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 275; John F. Mariani, The Dictionary of American Food and Drink (New York: Hearst Books, 1994), 47; Richard Vasquez, Chicano (Garden City, New York: Doubleday, 1970), 124; David Thomsen and Derek Wilson, ÙBurritos! (Salt Lake City, Utah: Gibbs-Smith Publisher, 1998), 1-12.
65. Crosby Gaige, New York World's Fair Cook Book: The American Kitchen (New York: Doubleday, Doran & Co., 1939),140.
66. Frank X. Tolbert, A Bowl of Red (New York: Doubleday and Co., 1966), 39-40; Richard J. Hooker, A History Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis & New York: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 330; Bill Bridges, The Great Chili Book.- 101 Variations on "The Perfect Bowl of Red" (New York: Lyons & Burford, 1994), 26-27.
67. Nancy Harmon Jenkins, "It's Called Mexican, But It is Genuine?" New York Times, April 23, 1986, as in Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1998), 216.
68. Glenn Hassenplug, "Texas Favorite Now a National Craze," Corpus Christi Caller, Sunday, October 22, 1978, as cited in Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1998), 107.
69. Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981; National & Regional Styles of Cookery,- Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 274.
70. [Victor J. Bergeron], Trader Vic's Pacific Island Cookbook with Side Trips to Hong Kong, Southeast Asia, Mexico, and Texas (Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1968), 195; Victor J. Bergeron, Trader Vic's Book of Mexican Cooking (Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Co., Inc., 1973), 41-42; Victor J. Bergeron, Frankly Speaking: Trader Vic's Own Story (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1973), 77-110.
71. Victor J. Bergeron, Trader Vic's Pacific Island Cookbook with Side Trips to Hong Kong, Southeast Asia, Mexico, and Texas (Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1968),184.
72. Marion Gonnan and Felipe de Alba, The Tequila Book (Chicago: Contemporary Books, Inc., 1978), 78-80; John F. Mariani, America Eats Out: An Illustrated History of Restaurants, Taverns, Coffee Shops, Speakeasies, and Other Establishments that Have Fed Us for 350 Years (New York: William Morrow and Company, Inc., 1991), 81; John F. Mariani, The Dictionary of American Food and Drink (New York: Hearst Books, 1994), 194; James Trager, The Food Chronology: A Food Lover's Compendium of Events and Anecdotes, From Prehistory to the Present (New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1995), 467.
73. Sprague, Warner & Co., Importers and Jobbers of Fine Groceries and Table Luxuries (Chicago:Sprague, Warner, & Co., 1885), 42-43.
74. Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981: National & Regional Styles of Cookery; Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 278; Bill Bridges, The Great Chili Book: 101 Variations on "The Perfect Bowl of Red" (New York: Lyons & Burford, 1994), 17-18.
75. Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981: National & Regional Styles of Cookery; Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 278; Gebhardt Chili Powder Company promotions, nd; Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge, Massachusetts:Harvard University Press, 1998), 159-60; E. G. Myers, comp., The Capitol Cook Book:A Facsimile of the Austin 1899 Edition (Austin, Texas: State House Press, 1995), 14.
76. The company survived until 1962 when it was purchased by Beatrice Foods. Today, Gebhardt's Eagle Brand products are available nationwide. See Mexican Cooking: The Flavor of The 20th Century--that Real Mexican Tang (San Antonio: Gebhardt Chili Powder Company, [pre- 1910]); Mexican Cooking.- The Flavor of The 20th Century--that Real Mexican Tang (San Antonio, Texas: Gebhardt Chili Powder Company, [pre- 1910]); Mexican Cookery for American Homes (San Antonio: Gebhardt Chili Powder Company, 1923), 34; Mexican Cookery for American Homes (San Antonio: Gebhardt Chili Powder Company, 1932), 35; Mexican Cookery for American Homes (San Antonio: Gebhardt's, 1935); Mexican Cookery for American Homes (San Antonio: Gebhardt Chili Powder Company, 1942); Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1998), 159-60.
77. Walker's Red Hot Chile Con Carne Recipe Booklet (Austin, Texas: Walker Properties Association, 1918), np.
78. California Mexican Cook Book (Los Angeles: E. C. Ortega Company, Inc., 1934), np; The Original Mexicans (Hartford, Connecticut: Heublein, Inc., 1972), np. The Ortega Company had financial difficulties during the Depression, and the company was merged first with the Royal Canning Company. In 1946, this combined company was acquired by the Coastal Valley Canning Company in Oxnard, California. During the 1960s, Ortega was purchased by Hueblein, Inc., which was itself purchased by R. J. Reynolds in 1983. Ortega was first consolidated with the Del Monte Speciality Company and then was subsumed under Nabisco Brands. Nabisco finally sold Ortega brand to Nestle USA in the fall of 1995.
79. Sigmund Kransz, Street Types of Great American Cities (Chicago: The Werner Company, 1896), 89-91; Frank H. Bushick, Glamorous Days (San Antonio: Naylor, 1934); Charles Ramsdell, San Antonio: a Historical and Pictorial Guide (Austin: University of Texas Press, cl976), 282.
80. Richard J. Hooker, A History Food and Drink in America (Indianapolis and New York: Bobbs-Merrill, 1981), 260.
81. La Patria, December 2, 1898, as cited in Jeffrey M. Pilcher, !Que Vivan Los Tamales! Food and the Making of Mexican Identity (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico, 1998), 48.
82. Modern Housekeeping and Food News (New York: Siegel Cooper Co., 1906), 3 8, 40; Libby, McNeill & Libby [Catalog] (Chicago: Libby, McNeill, Libby, circa 1906), 52-53; 55-58.
83. Artemas Ward, The Encyclopedia of Food (New York: Baker & Taylor, 1923 [1929]), 507.
84. Mexican Cookery for American Homes (SanAntonio:Gebhardt's,c.1935),34. ln l968, Mountain Pass Canning Company was bought out by Pet Inc., who began to market Mexican foods aggressively under the brand name of "Old El Paso." Pillsbury acquired the product line in 1995.
85. Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981: National & Regional Styles of Cookery; Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 275; Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1998), 165.
86. Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1998), 220.
87. Richard Pillsbury, No Foreign Food: The American Diet in Time and Place (Boulder, Colorado: Westview Press, 1998), 177, 184; Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine," in Alan Davidson, ed., Oxford Symposium 1981: National & Regional Styles of Cookery,- Proceedings (London: Prospect Books, 1981), 275; Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1998), 170; James Trager, The Food Chronology: A Food Lover's Compendium of Events and Anecdotes, From Prehistory to the Present (New York:Henry Holt and Company, 1995), 641.
88. Richard Pillsbury, No Foreign Food.- The American Diet in Time and Place (Boulder, Colorado:Westview Press, 1998), 177, 184.
89. Diana Kennedy, The Art of Mexican Cooking: Traditional Mexican Cooking for Aficionados (New York: Bantam Books, 1989), xiv.
90. Richard Condon and Wendy Bennett, The Mexican Stove: What to Put on It and in It (Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc., 1973), 16.
91. Beverly Hills Woman's Club, Fashions in Foods in Beverly Hills 2nd ed. (Beverly Hills, California: The Beverly Hills Citizen, 1930), 25.

