Introduction, Linda Keller Brown and Kay Musell

3

Part I

Food in the Performance of Ethnic Identity Theoretical Considerations

1

Equal Opportunity eating: A Structural Excursus on Things of the Mouth.  Roger Abrahams

19

2

Ethnic Foodways in America: Symbol and the Performance of Identity. Susan Kalcik.

37

3

A Framework for the Analysis of Continuity and Change in Shared Sociocultural Rules for Food Use: The Italian-American Pattern.

66

Part II

Food in the Performance of Ethnic Identity: Field Studies

4

Metaphor and Changing Reality: The Foodways and Beliefs of the Russian Molokans in the United States.  Willard B. Moore

91

5

Why Migrant Women Feed Their Husbands Tamales: Foodways as a Basis for a Revisionist View of Tejano Family Life.  Brett Williams

113

6

Food and Celebration: A Kosher Caterer as Mediator of Commun al Traditions.  Leslie Prosterman.

127

Part III

Food as the Rhetoric of Regionalization: Field Studies

7

A Wilderness in the Megalopolis: Foodways in the Pine Barrens of New Jersey. Angus K. Gillespie

145

8

The Social and Symbolic Uses of Ethnic/Regional Foodways: Cajuns and Crawfish in South Louisiana. C. Paige Cutierrez

169

Part IV

New Group Identities: Religion and Resocialization

9

Exotic Foods among Italian-Americans in Mormon Utah: Food as Nostalgic Enactment of Identity. Richard Raspa.

185

10

Conversion Through Foodways Enculturation: The Meaning of Eating in an American Hindu Sect. Eliot A. Singer

195

Part V

Food Research and the Implications for Public Policy

11

Economic, Social, and Cultural Factors in the Analysis of Disease: Dietary Change and Diabetes Mellitus among the Florida Seminole Indians.  Sandra K. Joos

217

12

Food for Ethnic Americans: Is the Government Trying to Turn the Melting Pot into a One-Dish Dinner?

238

Selected Bibliography

259

Contributors

264

Index

267