FOOD RESOURCE COLLEGE OF HEALTH AND HUMAN SCIENCES, OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY
CABARET
Garrett, Theodore Francis (edited by). 1898. the Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery. L. Upcott Gill, 170, Strand, W.C. London. Vol. I
is a French public-house, but in domestic circles it has come to denote a tea-board.
Excerpted from Montagne, Prosper. 1961. Larousee Gastronomique. The Encyclopedia of Food, Wine & Cookery. Crown Publishers, Inc., New York.
is in a general sense, today defines a tavern where drinks can be bought or, more often, are consumed on the premises, and where food is served.
In French the word 'cabaret' is often taken to have a derogatory connotation, although in the last few years it has been rehabilitated somewhat, for it is now used in France to describe quite elegant establishments, frequented by high society, where entertainment is provided and where prices are always rather high.
A great deal has been written on the origin of this word. Each of its syllables has been well and truly twisted in an effort to wrench its etymology from it. Some authorities go back as far as ancient Hebrew language-it is said that the word cabaret comes from cabar (to assemble). Others, delving into old Celtic, claim that it has been derived from two words cab (head) and aret (aries - i.e. ram), citing cases of this animal being consecrated to Bacchus as proof. We feel that it is not necessary to look any further than medieval Latin, the common source of so many French words, and investigate the verb cabare (to dig, to make a cave), which strikes us as being the most natural source of the word.
History. The cabarets owe more than their name to the Romans. The inn-sign, this picturesque distinguishing mark, the symbolic appeal to the customer; the cork, the clump of ivy or yew, whose shade invites the drinker and which Olivier Basselin knew so well-all these have been taken over from ancient Rome. In the words of the poet, the witty inventor of the norman Vaudevires:
'If vaut bien mieux cacher son nez dans un grand verre. If est mieux assure qu'en un casque de guerre; Pour cornette ou guidon suivre plutot on doit Les branches d'hierre ou d'if qui montrent ou I'on boit.'
'It is better to bury one's nose in a big glass. It's more protected thus than in a soldier's helmet; And for a standard or a pennant, it is best to follow The branch of ivy or of yew, which shows one where to drink.'
The inn-keppers of ancient Rome used to cut Bacchus' thyrsus to hang it over their inns, to advertise, with bare-faced effrontery, the dreadful mixture which they were pleased to call cecubae and falernian opimian wine.